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Lighting Design for Indian Homes — ModScale, Bengaluru

Getting the light
right.

More finished homes are let down by lighting than by any other decision, and it is the cheapest thing on the list to get right. Two numbers and three layers is most of it.

ModScale ·

01

The two numbers

Colour temperature. Use 2700–3000K in living areas and bedrooms. 4000K and above renders wood grey, makes warm stone look dead and fabric look flat — it is why a home can be built exactly to its render and still look wrong. Keep one temperature throughout the home; mixing them across an open plan is instantly visible.

CRI. Colour Rendering Index, out of 100. Specify CRI 90+. Below 80, the veneer you chose from a sample under daylight will not be the veneer you see at night. The price difference between CRI 80 and CRI 90 fittings is small; the visual difference is not.

02

Three layers, every room

Ambient. The general light — cove, recessed downlights, or a well-chosen ceiling fixture. It should be dimmable and it should never be the only layer.

Task. Light where work happens: under kitchen wall units, over the study desk, beside the reading chair, at the dressing mirror. Under-cabinet kitchen lighting is the single most-noticed upgrade in a home, because without it you cook in your own shadow.

Accent. Directional light on the things worth looking at — a stone feature wall, art, joinery, planting. This is what gives a room depth rather than flatness.

A room with only the ambient layer is a lit box. A room with all three has atmosphere at every time of day.

03

Where each fixture belongs

Cove / profile lighting — perimeter ambient, niches, under-counter, wardrobe internals. Choose a driver you can replace later; it will fail before the LED does.

Downlights — position them relative to furniture, not to the centre of the ceiling. A downlight over the edge of the sofa is useful; one over the middle of the floor is not.

Track and spots — art, stone, joinery. 15° to 36° beam depending on what is being lit.

Decorative pendants — dining, stairwell, double-height volumes, foyer. Decide these before the false ceiling closes; the hook, the drop and the power point all have to be in place first, and lead times run to weeks.

Lamps — the layer almost everyone omits. A floor lamp and a table lamp change a living room more than another four downlights.

04

Switching and control

Put each layer on its own circuit. A living room where you can have only the coves on at 9pm is a different room from one where it is all or nothing. Two-way switching at the bedroom door and at the bedside is a small cost during wiring and a permanent daily comfort.

Dimming has to be specified at the fitting and the driver, not added later. Decide at design stage.

05

Daylight is a material too

Bengaluru gives you generous, fairly soft daylight for most of the year. Sheer curtains rather than heavy ones on the windows you sit near; light-toned surfaces opposite a window to bounce it deeper into the room; and mirrors placed to reflect a window rather than a wall. None of this is on the electrical drawing, and all of it changes how the home feels at 4pm.

Want this applied to your own home? Start a project or read the material library.

Frequently asked

01

What colour temperature should I use at home?

2700–3000K in living areas and bedrooms, kept consistent across the home. Anything cooler renders wood, stone and fabric badly and is the most common reason a finished home does not look like its renders.

02

What is CRI and does it matter?

Colour Rendering Index — how accurately a light source shows colour, out of 100. Specify CRI 90 or above. The cost difference over CRI 80 is small and the difference in how your materials look at night is large.

03

How many downlights does a room need?

Fewer than most plans show. Position them relative to the furniture and the surfaces worth lighting rather than spacing them evenly across the ceiling, and add task and accent layers instead of more ceiling points.

Start your project

Tell us about your home.
We will take it from there.

A first conversation costs nothing and commits you to nothing — you leave it with a clear view of what your home could be, and what it would take.